Where to Eat in Saint-Germain-des-Prés
A yummy Paris list!
I just spent the afternoon on the Left Bank, weaving through the Latin Quarter and Saint-Germain-des-Prés with a family I’ve had the privilege of guiding twice now on a tour. Last year, Le Marais. This year, the 6th. I love that we get to have these kinds of reunions!
We started the morning at the softly and beautifully over by Marché aux Fleurs on Île de la Cité and didn’t stop moving: cobblestone streets (some wonky, so flat shoes to wander Paris are an absolute must, pack them!), a covered passage, a boulangerie stop, a coffee break, an art shop, a clothing boutiques, a French décor shop… + more included in the full Yanique experience (each tour is cjhnlustomised).
Then came the moment for us to say our adieus. I’d like to end the tour with a sit-down lunch. Except it wasn’t until I was desperately trying to book a table for seven that one of the hostesses looked at me and said: “Madame, it is what you say… Spring Break.” Ha. lort… Got it.
Paris is a heavily visited city, and Spring Break is actually a wonderful time to be here - the cherry blossoms are out in full swing, making the city extra “belle”, but the best tables fill up fast. We figured it out in the end, but it got me thinking: I should share my go-to spots so you can plan ahead and have the best time in the Left Bank.
So here it is. Think of this as Part 1 (top of mind, non-exhaustive) focused on traditional French food, natural wine, oysters, bakeries, and great coffee. There is something for every mood and most budgets.
NB! Book ahead where you can (simply follow the Google map links and those will open the booking page of the restaurant or send you to The Fork, which everyone here uses).
On y va!
A note before we dive in: for a much deeper dive, hotels, hidden passages, markets, and the best spots across all of Paris- I wrote Local Paris, a full guide to the city the way locals actually live it. More on that at the end.
Wine Bars
One of my personal favourites on this side of the river - and one I’ve already written about here in the newsletter. Freddy’s is the kind of small, unpretentious wine bar where you end up staying far longer than planned. I’m not usually a fan of bar stool seating, but here I could hang out for hours working through the menu. Natural wines, good snacks, and the kind of crowd that actually knows what’s in their glass. Arrive early - it fills up and they don’t take reservations.
l’ Avant Comptoir de Marché.
Bar-style, yet a cosy local hang-out right beside the Marché Saint-Germain. Unpretentious and lively. Expect rotating small plates and exceptional natural wines. It’s the kind of stop you make before dinner to wake up your appetite - and then end up staying at. Cash only. Go hungry.
Oktobre.
A beautifully curated natural wine bar with a serious but approachable list. The space is minimal, the vibe is calm, and the food is French bistronomy-style. This is where you go when you want to drink something interesting, eat well, and actually have a conversation.
Augustin Marchand d’Vins.
An easy neighbourhood wine bar with solid small plates that can easily become a full meal. Friendly staff, no attitude, reliably good bottles. The price point is a little more elevated than the others on this list, but the quality matches it. It’s a tiny space too, but a solid anchor for an evening on the Left Bank.
L’Huitrerie Régis.
If you eat oysters, come here. Régis is a tiny, legendary oyster bar near the Odéon where the oysters arrive fresh and ice-cold with perfect bread and butter. Order a glass of Chablis or Champagne and you will feel like the luckiest person in Paris. Book ahead - it’s tiny and in demand year-round.
Restaurants
Le Procope.
The oldest café-restaurant in Paris, and still worth going. Voltaire, Rousseau, and Benjamin Franklin all ate here. I love to suggest it for larger groups - plenty of seating, no scrambling. The food is reliably classic French: duck confit, beef bourguignon, crème brûlée. Come for the history as much as the meal, and don’t skip the upstairs rooms.
A beautiful, intimate bistro on Rue Christine that does everything right: excellent French classics, good wine, and the kind of setting that makes a Tuesday feel like a special occasion. I’ve written about it on the blog and always suggest it for a romantic dinner. A favourite for visitors who want the real thing, not a tourist-trap version of it. Book ahead - it’s popular for a reason.
Le Relais de l’Entrecôte.
There is no menu. You get one question: how do you want your steak? Yes, there may be a line - be warned. Then comes the most legendary steak-frites in Paris, with that secret walnut-herb butter sauce, served in two rounds so it stays hot. Bottomless frites. End of story. No reservations - arrive at opening or expect a wait.
Brasserie Lipp.
Yes, Café de Flore and Les Deux Magots are right across the street - both worth a coffee for the atmosphere and the history - but for food, Lipp is in a different league. The choucroute garnie is famous for good reason, and the Belle Époque dining room is one of the most beautiful interiors on the boulevard. Old-school Paris in the best possible way. My friends who actually live in the neighbourhood eat here.
Restaurant du Musée d’Orsay.
The first time I discovered this restaurant I was sceptical - museum food, really? But not only was it colourful, seasonal, and genuinely good, it has been consistently spectacular every time since. And the setting at lunchtime is absolutely unbeatable - think chateau-style decor! Don’t let the museum location fool you - this one is worth planning around.
Bakeries & Food Shops
Gérard Mulot.
A Paris institution near Saint-Sulpice. Impeccable pastries, elegant tarts, and some of the best sandwiches on the Left Bank - try the simple jambon beurre (ham and butter). Take it to a bench or head to the nearby Luxembourg Gardens. This is where you go when you want to feel like a Parisian on a Saturday morning.
Pastavino.
A small Italian deli and sandwich shop that is wildly good for what it is. Fresh pasta, quality charcuterie, yummy Italian sandwiches made to order, and the desserts… trop bon. I’ll be honest - this is my guilty pleasure for those evenings when I’ve come from a small-portion restaurant, had a bit too much to drink, and I’m still hungry on the walk home… we’ve all been there non? A perfect detour just off Rue de Buci, for when you are “pompette” haha.
Liberté ( the one on 40 Rue Saint-André des Arts).
A beautifully designed modern bakery doing serious bread and outstanding pastries. The croissants are crisp, layered, and buttery in the way only French butter can produce. The quiches and sandwiches are excellent too. Worth going out of your way for.
A picnic note
The Marché Saint-Germain has plenty of little take-away spots for wine, cheese, fruit, and vegetables. Pick up what you like and head to the banks of the Seine or the Luxembourg Gardens - one of the great free pleasures of Paris.
Coffee
Maison Fleuret.
A calm, beautifully designed coffee shop where you actually want to disconnect from the world and get lost in a book - floor-to-ceiling shelves and all. Great for a slow morning or a mid-afternoon pause. They also run a French baking school, which is worth looking into if you want to do something a little different while you’re in Paris.
Noir Coffee.
Paris’s specialty coffee scene has grown up, and Noir is one of its best representatives. Minimal design, expertly pulled espresso, baristas who actually care. You can find them all over Paris now - and thank goodness, because the consistency is genuinely good.
Shakespeare and Company Café.
Attached to the legendary bookshop on the banks of the Seine, this café has views of Notre-Dame and a menu that punches well above its tourist-adjacent location. The banana bread is famous. The atmosphere is irreplaceable. When the weather is good, sit on one of the benches facing the cathedral. A must on any Left Bank itinerary.
Nuance ( the one on 22 Rue du Vieux Colombier).
A small, well-loved neighbourhood coffee shop with a loyal following and a warm, unpretentious atmosphere. Best for a coffee to go - there’s no real seating - but the cup itself is excellent.
Cuppa.
A cosy, friendly specialty coffee shop with consistently good cups and a relaxed atmosphere, tucked just behind the Musée d’Orsay. Their lunch and brunch menus are worth making a reservation for. One of those places you’ll want to return to on the second morning just because it felt right the first time.
For much more - hotels, hidden passages, markets, and the best spots across all of Paris - grab a copy of Local Paris. It’s the guide I wish I’d had when I first moved here.
Questions? Planning a trip? Hit reply - I read every one.
Ps here’s a photo from today’s tour - thank you, Erika and Steve, for sharing your family with me encore!!! :)
Bisous and many blessings, Yanique - @myparisianlife
Merci for the recommendations - making notes for my next visit! Maison Fleuret looks gorgeous.